Tuscan cookies. . . The Befanini

This past weekend, with the “ponte” della Befana (Epiphany long weekend), the Italian Christmas Holidays were officially over.

But before I move on I want to share one last holiday recipe.

Last Friday, January 6, in an effort to pay homage to the festivity of the Epiphany and to the Befana, I came across a recipe of traditional Tuscan biscotti (cookies) called precisely Befanini.

The Befanini are a Tuscan tradition, in particular in Versilia, which is the North-West area of the Tuscan coast.

The tradition of the Befanini, the cookies of the Befana, is quite old; they are made with very simple ingredients because they were the holiday’s cookies of the time when there were not other means to celebrate.

The preparation was sort of a ritual, once ready they were packed in colored bags which the children exchanged in the street.

It is also said that they were donated to pregnant women because the popular belief attributed to the biscotti the ability to ensure abundant milk.

Being my first time baking these cookies, I have to say that screening the different versions of the recipe has been more difficult  than the actual processes of making them.

I am very picky when I look for a new recipe (to be honest, I am just picky in general!). I always like to start from the most traditional and authentic recipe and then add my little touch to it.

However, it is not always easy to find the original recipe, think of all the bloggers like myself that like to add their own little touches!

According to the Italian magazine “L’Espresso” , the original recipe included only 5 ingredients (flour, sugar, butter, eggs, and lemon zest) plus the baking powder.

Despite the fact that the Befanini are still made in a traditional way, the recipe has evolved through the years, and it appears that all the more contemporary versions share the use of liquor and colored sprinkles, while some also add anise seeds.

In My recipe I have opted to use the Italian Sambuca liqueur (different versions use Rum or Vinsanto),  I have added orange zest, and used the colored sprinkles because they make the biscotti much more festive.

This past Saturday I hosted a party for the Italian-American of Frederick and everyone seemed to enjoy my Befanini, in fact, I gladly packed several little bags of cookies to go!

Although these biscotti (cookies) are typically made in occurrence of the Epiphany you can enjoy them year around. Try them and let me know.

Ricetta dei Befanini Toscani

Ingredients:

3 cups of flour type 00 ( if you don’t have Flour type 00, use 50/50 all purpose and pastry flour)

1-1/2 cups of sugar

7 ounces of softened butter

1/2 cup of milk

3 eggs plus 1 for the egg wash

Zest of one orange

Zest of half lemon

1 tablespoon of baking powder

1 pinch of salt

2 tablespoon of Sambuca or Rum

multicolored sprinkles

Directions:

In the bowl of a standing mixer combine the flour and the sugar.

Then add the softened butter and process slowly.

Add the eggs and continue processing.

Now add the orange zest, the lemon zest, the baking powder, the salt and the liqueur.

Work the dough for 10 minutes on medium speed adding the milk as necessary to make a smooth dough.

Process the dough until it detaches from the side of the food processor bowl.

Transfer the dough on a floured pastry board and kned it fast to form a ball.

Wrap the dough in wrapping film and let rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

Preheat oven at 350 degree.

Add enough flour to the working surface and around your rolling pin and start rolling out the dough. Your sheet of dough should not be less than 1/4 inch tick.

Use cookie cutters in different shapes to cut your cookies.

Place them on the cookie sheet lined with parchment paper. Make an egg wash with one egg and a little bit of milk. Brush the cookies with the egg wash and add sprinkles.

Bake the biscotti for 12-14 minutes at 350. The cookies should be a nice gold color.

Remove from oven and transfer to a cooling rack.

Enjoy the Befanini with tea or milk!

The Befanini

The Epiphany. . . La Befana

January 6 is a National holiday in Italy. It is the Epifania (Epiphany), a Christian holiday celebrated precisely on January 6, 12 days after Christmas.

The word Epifania derives from the Greek word epifanèia, which means “the manifestation or the appearance”.

The Epiphany celebrates the first manifestation of Jesus to the world through the visit of the Re Magi (three wise men) coming from the East, led by a comet to adore the Baby Jesus and to offer their gifts of gold (symbol of royalty), frankincense (symbol of divinity) and myrrh (symbol of the future redemptive suffering).

The celebration of the Epiphany is also accompanied by traditions of very ancient lineage (solar cults) and in particular the visit of la Befana on the eve of January 6. The tradition of La Befana may actually predates Christianity, as it is believed to have derived from a pagan goddess or oracle that Romans sought for guidance and gifts at the start of each new year.

“la Befana vien di notte con le scarpe tutte rotte il cappello alla romana, viva viva la Befana!!!”

(The Befana comes at night with broken shoes and a roman hat, hurrah hurrah for the Befana!!!)

With this rhyme the Italian children every year celebrate the arrival of the old, good witch.

La Befana is a typical Italian tradition.

According to the modern legend, the Re Magi (The three Wise men), on their way to Bethlehem to bring gifts to Baby Jesus, stopped for directions at an old woman’s house.

Picture from "The Christmas Witch" by J. Oppenheim and A. Mitra

Despite their insistence in following them, the old woman did not go, as she was busy sweeping the floors.

Later, the old woman repented, prepared a basket of sweets and left the house hoping to find the three Wise Men. She stopped at every house and gave candies to the children, in the hope that one of them was Baby Jesus. Poor Befana never found her way to Bethlehem. But, every year at Christmastime, she takes her broom and flies all over the Italian sky, leaving gifts and candies to every children.

La Befana is typically depicted as an old beneficent woman, with the hump nose and pointed chin, dressed in rags and covered with soot, because she enters into the houses through the chimney, which represents the connection between sky and earth. She carries on her shoulder a bag full of gifts, and is said to sweep the kitchen with her broom when she leaves her gifts in the children‘s socks.

The festivity of the Befana is particularly felt in Rome, where many families each year gather in Piazza Navona to meet the Befana and enjoy her confectionary.

The Befana traditionally rewards the well-behaved children with gifts and candies, while she punishes the ones who have misbehaved, with pieces of coal as a reminder of their misdeeds.

But. . . nobody is perfect, so you will find in the “calza” (sock – stocking) a nice chunk of coal and then, digging deeper, among some walnut and mandarins you will always find candies and chocolates.

The eve of the Befana is a night of expectation for all the children who, before going to sleep, write the letterina (short letter). The letterina to the Befana is a must. You write how good you have been or how sorry you are for your misbehaving and then you ask for gifts for yourself and for your loved ones.

One more thing before going to sleep must be done, setting up a tray with the Befana’s meal. I know. . . you are thinking cookies and milk just like Santa Claus! Well, you could not be more wrong. . . cheese, tangerines and a glass of red wine! In true Italian style!

I have many memories of the night of the Befana but, two in particular that I would like to share. When I was a child, my family didn’t have a fireplace to hang the stockings so my mom would set up a drying rack. One year I remember hanging long wool tights on each string of the rack. That was a lot of stuffing to do for poor Befana! I remember waking up the following morning and finding the drying rack set on top of the dining room table, all the tights were filled and a beautiful electric train was assembled at the foot of the drying rack all along the edge of the table. Oh, I was so happy!

My second memory brings a little sadness. I was six years old when my grandmother passed away just two days before the Epiphany. I was sent to stay with some close friends. That year, in a home that was not mine, I had not written my letterina (short letter), or left a meal for the Befana and not even hung my calza (stocking). Despite all, I woke up to find my calza (stocking) filled as usual, and the gift I had wished for. My Befana knew, and even in a time of grief she remembered that I was only a little kid.

My mother has filled my brothers’ stockings and mine until we moved out. Often with the candies, walnuts and tangerines, we would also find a scarf or hat that she had hand knitted.

Today, I still fill my two, now adult, son’s stockings and I will keep doing it until they go on their own. I fill their calze (stockings) with Italian candies and chocolates, tangerines, walnuts and a stuffed animal, a tradition I started on their first Befana.

Picture from "The Christmas Witch" by J. Oppenheim and A. Mitra

With la Befana the Italian Christmas Season is officially over, as the saying goes “L’Epifania tutte le feste si porta via!” – “The Epiphany all holidays takes away”.

It is time to take the Christmas tree down, to store the presepe (Nativity scene) in its box, the wreaths and garlands in the storage room and to turn all the shining lights off.

Anyway, if there was not the Epiphany to take all the holidays away, we would still have the Home Owner Association to remind us that we only have this weekend to make sure that no signs of Christmas would be in sight!

How many of you celebrate the Epiphany?

La ricetta della Calamarata . . . Calamarata recipe

I am back after a few days of break. I am sure you all had a delightful Holiday weekend just like mine.

My fall (off the only ONE step outside my front door!) on Friday evening, the failure of the garbage disposal and dishwasher on Saturday and the delay of the gift my husband had bought me, which by the way was worth the wait, could not ruin our plan for a wonderful Holiday!

I have spent many hours in my kitchen, the house smelled great, the food was delicious. My husband and I and our two wonderful sons – oh . . . I shouldn’t forget our two lovely dogs – spent a joyous Christmas Eve at the dinner table. The various courses were intercalated by the unwrapping of our gifts and, let me tell you, Babbo Natale (Father Christmas) has been once again generous, thoughtful and tasteful with everyone.

Even Vera and Luna were happy with their new bed, toys and giant cookies!

Vera

Luna

After dinner we played board games and just had a good time.

The rest of the weekend was enlightened by more great food and the company of some dear friends, which is always special during the Holidays.

Before I move on to the the Notte di San Silvestro (St. Sylvester’s night – New Years Eve), it is time to keep my promise, so here there are some pics from the Cenone della Vigilia and the recipe of My Calamarata ai frutti di mare (Sea food Calamarata).

 

Calamarata is a type of pasta typical of the region of Campania. It is a wide tubular pasta that takes its name form the calamari (squids) to which once cut into rings, is very similar in shape. The pasta that I used is from Gragnano (a small town in the Neapolitan area, which is considered the kingdom of pasta making. I will tell you about it in another blog), it is made exclusively with durum wheat semolina and it is extruded through bronze dies. This makes the surface slightly rough, making it more suitable to hold sauces and condiments.

Calamarata Pasta

Because of its resemblance to the rings of squid, the typical recipe requires only the use of calamari (squid) so that the pasta and the squids become indistinguishable. In my recipe however, I use different mollusks, and crustaceans.

MY CALAMARATA AI FRUTTI DI MARE

Ingredients for 6

1 pound Calamarata Pasta ( you can substitute with Paccheri)

1/2 pound cherry tomatoes

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 pound calamari (squid)

3/4 pound large gamberi (shrimp)

2 pound cozze (mussels)

2 pound vongole (clams)

1 steamed lobster tail (optional)

2 garlic cloves crushed and peeled

salt to taste

crushed red pepper to taste

freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 cup hand chopped parsley 

Directions:

In a large pot bring salted water to boil.

Keep in mind that if you use good quality pasta it might take up to 20-25 minutes to cook. This means you can prepare your sauce while the pasta in cooking. Also remember to cook the pasta one minute less than directed on the package.

If your seafood is not already clean start with these steps

Choose the clams and mussels discarding the cracked ones.

Brush the mussels under running water and remove the beard.

Rinse the clams several times in running water. (Tip: to remove any sand present in the clams, add a bit of flour to water and leave to soak the clams for a few minutes. Then proceed with the rinsing process).

Rinse the squids several times, then skin, eviscerate and wash them inside and out and cut into rings slightly larger than the size of the pasta.

Shell the shrimps, devein, rinse and pat dry (if you buy shrimps with head on, remove the heads and keep 6 on the side).

Shell the lobster tail and cut into 1 inch pieces

Now all your seafood is ready.

Put the clams and the mussels in two separate pots over high heat. Let the clams and mussels open, to facilitate the process cover the pots with a lid. Remove from the heat, shell the clams and mussels (keep some in the shell for decoration) and strain the juice through a sieve and set aside. Keep the clams and mussels warm (pour a little juice over the clams and mussels to prevent drying out).

In a pan large enough to hold the seafood and the pasta, heat the oil, add the crushed garlic, the crushed red pepper and a little salt. Fry until the garlic is slightly gold. You can remove the garlic now.

Add the cherry tomatoes and the squids and cook for 10 minutes. After the first 5 minutes, to keep the sauce moist, add a little of the juice that you had reserved.

After 10 minutes add the lobster tail and the shrimp and cook 3 minutes. Keep adding juice as necessary.

Meanwhile your pasta has been cooking in salted boiling water.

It is time now to add the mussels, clams, hand chopped parsley and a little more juice. Stir together and cook 2 minutes.

At this point your pasta should be al dente, drain well and add it to the pan.

Lastly add the unshelled clams and mussels, more juice and freshly ground black pepper and  fate saltare ( make the pasta jump – slightly fry) the pasta for a minute shaking the pan. When all the condiment has completely coated the pasta, remove from heat and sprinkle with fresh hand chopped parsley.

Buon Appetito!

I would love to hear about your Holiday weekend and your plans for New Year ‘s Eve, what’s your tradition?